New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island
On the drive to PEI we began to see some colorful foliage in New Brunswick. It’s is a Maritime province in eastern Canada known for its vast forests, rugged coastlines, extensive river system, and a unique blend of English- and French-speaking cultures. We touched on the south part of the province 40 years ago, amazed by the Bay of Fundy with the largest tides in the world. This time, driving north to south, the countryside was very pretty. We didn’t want a long day of driving the entire way to PEI so we planned a stop in Florenceville-Bristol, chosen in order to stay in a railway car converted to a B&B for a unique kind of stay. It turned out to be a great choice and there was a perfect autumn hike nearby.
Next “port-of-call” was Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest province in the Maritime’s on Canada’s east coast. It is known for its red sandstone cliffs, pastoral green fields and rich history. It is famous for its potatoes and seafood like lobster and mussels. The island offers a slow-paced lifestyle with scenic coastal drives, numerous beaches, and a unique culture blending indigenous nations and Celtic influences. We have been here before and really liked the calm and quiet it offers. Tourist season (summer) is very low-key and peaceful. Crossing the Confederation Bridge into PEI a landmark lighthouse greets. The bridge is the world’s largest bridge over icy waters connecting PEI to NB since 1997. On our last visit in 1987, a ferry was the only way to reach the island.
The historic Fairholm Boutique Inns was our home in Charlottetown for 4 nights. A superb breakfast was included.
Despite its diminutive appearance, PEI is actually not so easy to tour in 2-1/2 leisurely days. We spent one day driving the eastern third, visiting notable lighthouses with docents sharing fascination stories of their history. We ended up rushing to squeeze in a long walk around PEI National Park, that followed a floating boardwalk leading to a forlorn windswept beach. Another day we drove the middle section and worked our way to the north, but this was a big ask. We ate lobster rolls at Rick’s Fish & Chips and Seafood House, famous for it’s…what else…lobster rolls. It was the last day open for the season and we were advised to arrive early before they sold out. By the time we finished our lunch, the queue was 20 long.
Our last night was memorable. We met a couple who were also staying at the inn and they were attending a Ceilidh in town. A cèilidh is a traditional Scottish and Irish social gathering. In contemporary usage, it usually involves dancing and playing Gaelic folk music. A rollicking good time was provided by these very talented and entertaining musicians and dancers. The daughters and son with the 72-year old mother (on the left) joining in for the finale. Quite the treat.
Our route from Quebec City to Prince Edward Island
Cruising around PEI for a couple days starting in Charlottetown (home base)- east end, then middle
